Star Gate Log Book May Part Two: More Pictures and text.
The first two pictures show how the top lens, the ring and the bottom bowl lens. The pictures show a disk top lens. I have changed it out with a triangle shaped lens.
The next three pictures are of the top assembly. This is the equipment that holds the top lens up. It is built up. It has two flat washers that have a coupler nut in the center of them. A coupler nut is nothing more than a long nut. About a � inch lone. There four finishing nail stuck in between the two washers. It's all glued together with J.B.Weild. I tried it with one washer. But it wouldn't hold. On the ends of the finishing nails are squares of Plexiglas Plastic glass. Cheap. I again had to put two squares to each nail one on bottom and one on top. It was the only way I could get it to hold. I had to put three on two ends and two on the other end. Because the two strips of plastic I used four of them. Two of the strips set on top of the other two. Making two of the sides higher than the other two sides. So to get it to seat right I had to put shims under two of the sides. There is a stove bolt that goes down the center coupler nut. There is a coupler nut glued to the back of the top mirror. There is a lock nut on the stove bolt to hold it on better.
The next few pictures are of the ring and how it is made. It's made out of the bottom a coke can. The base that the can set on. It's rounded. It has two plastic strips glued to it. One on each side. It set on two plastic strips that are attached to the bolts that are part of the frame work of the stand. I used bolts as the frame of the stand so that there would be a way to adjust the lens. The frame is made out of stove bolts nuts and washers. Cheap.
This picture shows the bottom bowl lens. And how it is glued with bath room chocking to the anvil. Also you can see the bolts, nuts, and washers of the frame work of the stand. You can see one of the plastic strips that hold the ring up.
The next few pictures are of the top assembly of the frame and the lens. It is all held together with paper clips. One on each end when put together
The next few pictures are of what it looks like all put together with the top bucket on. The board attached to the bottom of the bucket is a 2x6 and what is coming out of the side of the 2x6 is a 2x4. The 2x4 is there to attach the turn buckle to and it also holds the sights. There is three 2x4 nailed together on the base board to get the rest of it high enough so that the turn buckle will work right.
The next set of pictures is about what you have to build. Just in case you ever get this thing to form a worm hole. It has to be placed in a sealed container. This is why the top lens has a coupler nut glued on the back of it So that you can lift the lens straight up out of the frame work. With out heating any thing. Take it off the top assembly. And put it on the bolt that is glued to the inside of this plug cap. With a lock nut on it. See picture. If the worm hole forms and your not ready for it. It takes a little time to round up every thing you need and build one of these things.
You need to take a plywood board and rape it with aluminum foil. When the worm hole forms. Place the board and foil between you and the worm hole.
If you can take the two above pictures and place them end to end. You can see the hole thing.
There are three tubes of pipe. Each one bigger or smaller than the other. The largest tube. The one in the back ground. Is the tube that every thing goes in side of. Rap the large tube in aluminum foil. About 9 raps. Shinny side in.
On the left you can see the cap plug that holds the lens and worm hole. Put it in first. You have to have the tool to tighten the cap so that it will form an air tight seal. Rap the cap plug in foil. This will help protect you from any radon partials that are forming. This will make the tube like the barrel of a gun. The radon particles will come out the end. But not out the sides of the tube. Point the open end of the tube a way from you.
The middle tube has a cap plug glued to the end of it. See Picture.
The tube in the fore ground is small enough too slid down the inside of the center tube. The spring goes down the tube first. The small tube has a flat washer glued to one end. So that the spring will not go up inside of the small tube. At the other end of the small tube is glued a 1/2 inch pluck disk of steal. This is what will go down the mouth of the worm hole to produce the force.
Because the worm hole is all ready in one of the big tube. You put the spring in to the middle tube first then slide the small tube in side the middle tube. Put the middle tube assembly in to the big tube with the worm hole in it. Place the middle tube assembly on the ground and slide the big tube down over it. If nothing happens. Take the middle tube out. Put one washer under the spring. Next to the cap. And try it again. Do this till you get a force. One washer at a time. The first time you get a force. Tighten both cap plugs to form an air tight seal. Place it in a post hole. And leave it till it forms a vacuum and stops producing radon particles. When the vacuum forms. You can take off the foil.
The spring you see here is rated at 300 pounds of force. You can’t hold on to 300 pounds of force. About five pounds is what you are looking for. Just enough to know that it working. It might be better for me to find s spring that is much weaker. It would be safer.
Looking down the open end of the middle tube.
The order in which the small tube goes in side of the middle tube. The washer end of small tube. The spring. And the open end of the middle tube.
The steel hockey pluck end of the small tube.
It's me. Larry. At last. At long last. It's finished. The only thing else that I can think to tell you is that Ed made a small worm hole. It didn't kill him out right. At least not right a way. He used it out in the open for a long time. But in the end, He died. But if the worm hole never forms. There is no danger here. No harm in trying. Larry L. Burks